Thanks for this Denise. I can see that some of your photos are very different to others - very clear and good colours. I assume the Halloween photos are recent, and follow Lyndsey’s advice?
I will go and look at her website - I welcome any chance to improve!
those ones are old actually. the new ones have the wallpaper backgrounds ( dress dishcloths for example) Sorry, the scarves aren’t listed on here anymore! colours completely depend on monitor settings, what looks good to me may look completely different to you…
http://folksy.com/items/6489038-Blue-Dress-Dishcloth-Knit-Novelty-Dishcloth-Knit-Dress-Dishcloth
the plain white backgrounds I have are all made with fotofuze, not ideal depending on the background you’ve used or the colour of the item…
Hi Lizzie, No I didn’t think you were digging at me personally. I appreciate any help, and there has been lots on this post. I am trying to improve, but as I am not technical minded I will have to study the instructions more closely. I have downloaded Picasa, and tried a couple of my photos, and the results are amazing just by brightening. Thanks for the help and everyone who has added their comments. I will master it, slowly slowly catch the monkey.
Marg. x
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Co-incidentally I’ve just written a blog on this very topic…
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Stephanie,
All information like this is very useful for crafters . But I think that on your blog photos, the reflections on the table from the objects are a bit of a distraction to the viewer.
You can eliminate or reduce them with a polarizing filter. A circular polarizer is necessary for a lot of modern digital cameras that have autofocus, to ensure they work properly. Alternatively, you could try changing the angle of the camera and use a non-glossy surface.
That’s very interesting Ronald, I quite like the reflections…I wonder what others think?
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Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for the blog post - some really useful ideas and information there. I’ll bookmark it for future use!!
Personally, I don’t mind the reflections in your photos - although I think the “stone” and final “coin” shots do have stronger reflections, which are slightly distracting. I do use either a matt white surface (for my “flat shots”), or a wood surface for my photos. That’s just personal preference - I like the wood, as it gives the idea of a table or writing surface, which is nice for books. Nothing wrong with your shots - in fact, they are great!
Next time I take some product shots, I’m going to try some of your suggestions. Thanks very much!
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I think the reflections enhance rather than detract.
I see you have a Sony which you refer to as a Compact Bridge type - could you tell me the model. I’m especially interested in yours as it has a view finder and my eyesight is such that I am far far better squinting through a view finder, which I’m used to, than trying to see the picture on the back screen which is often the viewfinder nowadays, especially in bright sunlight.
I’ve heard today that my Minolta Dynax 5D - all singing and dancing DSLR - can be mended but in future I’m going to keep it at home just for photographing glass as it does that job well.
So I’ve now informed my husband I will be wanting a new, 2nd, camera for Christmas and will be looking at the Compact range as I do like to take good photos on holiday (as we take quite a few of those !). So I’m open to suggestions as to what to get.
xx
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you dont’ need lots of filters and gadgets if you are set up well, and take the time to plan out what look you are going for. I have a net curtain covering the bottom half of a sash window, a piece of MDF painted white for the ‘floor’ of my small item shots placed on the sideboard right beside the window, then several MDF backdrops with different wallpaper samples glued on - or you can tile the backdrop to look like a backsplash. I have a piece of cardboard covered in aluminum foil opposite the window to reflect light back onto the object. I have assorted props I use to block the line between backdrop and floor, and try to keep them blurred and I use a tripod and timer. I usually now only take 1/2 shots then move on. Takes longer to set up but then you dont’ need to spend more than 20 seconds cropping the photo, so it saves time in the long run.
My set-up cost less than £30.
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A good range of background materials and diffusers/reflectors can save hours of computer work, and make the image look more professional.
I purchased various textile materials in a department store a couple of years ago, not cheap but best thing I ever did - I have used those on Ebay and other sites as backgrounds, and extensively when I get asked to take other crafters items, like mosaics and ceramics, for pictures and cards.
Simple reflectors, even sheets, can soften shadows and make a huge difference in the photo.
If you do close up’s a lot you can think about a ‘ringflash’ or a flash where you can fit around the lens. Have some incredible nature pictures using that, but OK, it costs a bit to buy, and needs to be justified. Have seen cheap second-hand ones available for £25 - £30. You can have virtually shadow-free lighting of almost any close-up object from any angle, but I suspect is too involved /costly for most crafters.
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(i once uploaded an item with a phone picture as I couldn’t find my camera and it sold within the hour… I normally spend that long faffing with taking photos and putting them on the computer…)
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Joy it’s a cybershot DSC-HX200V
http://www.sony.co.uk/support/en/product/DSC-HX200V
It’s a couple of years old now and looks like it’s been discontinued. It’s a compact bridge camera so is half way between a compact and a DSLR, and I’ve been very happy with it.
I haven’t uploaded any items in this shop, but in my other shop “le petit bijou UK”, I did all my editing with a chrome app, “Pixir Touch Up”. I usually use my chromebook as opposed to my laptop or pc and you cannot use Photoshop, Gimp (my personal favourite) or Picassa. It really is idiot proof (me using it is the guarantee) and I use the Pixir editor if I need a full featured programme. I would imagine there is a version available for other operating systems and it is so simple to use! I suggest trying it and I am pretty sure you won’t need any other photo programmes.
Good luck all,
Leslie
Oh thanks very much for that. That is certainly the type of thing I’m going to be looking at - much better than a straight point and shoot and cheaper than a full SLR - and some even have video (not checked yours to see if it does ) which is a bonus when grandchildren pictures are concerned. I’ve a couple of friends with them who are both very happy with them but unfortunately they are not close enough to me to borrow for a test.
Joy xx
When it comes to photo editing software, I love Picassa. (free!)
I use a Canon bridge camera which is both versatile and chunky - I’m not a fan of wallet size cameras with mega pixels and large price tags.
I’ve always used Canon and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them.
Sarah x
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I have recently got a Nikon Coolpix L820 Bridge camera. It’s pretty good. There isn’t a viewfinder window, but the screen is quite a decent size. It got very good reviews - especially for a bridge camera in its price-range - which is what finally decided me to buy it (that and a special offer deal!). The optical parts and processors etc are the same as some more pricey cameras, so the photos it produces are very good really. I think what keeps its price lower, is that it uses “AA” batteries, rather than the usual rechargeable camera batteries (which cost more). If you use the higher power batteries (labelled as for cameras and electrical equipment), then the batteries last quite a long time (longer than my old camera’s rechargeable battery).
I’m pretty pleased with my camera - it’s worth considering, especially as you get a lot more for your money, than other bridge cameras in that price bracket (it’s currently £119 at Argos, which is a great price for this kind of camera). There is also an L830 model, though I’m not sure what the difference is - slightly higher spec. (eg. 34x optical zoom vs 30x). There’s also a Sony in the same price range as those two, but its spec. isn’t as good - no idea what the reviews say though.
Definitely consider the Nikon L820/L830, if you’re looking at bridge cameras. Good price, great spec, excellent reviews and I’m another happy customer!
(Hope this is helpful!)
Lizzie
I am currently trying to improve my pictures to all my listings, but I am finding it hard. I am now using my Pentax digital camera Optico 430RS, its a little better than my mobile phone.
Esterina x
This is an interesting thread and I am probably going off topic here slightly but if you don’t mind me asking, do you have any tips for photographing textiles behind glass to avoid reflection? I solved this issue for my prints simply by taking out the glass and photographing them in the frame without the glass but I cannot do this on the larger oak framed originals as the glass is fused to the frame, so any tips would be appreciated!
As an initial thought as it is something i avoid at all costs, don’t take photos with any light shining onto the glass.
In my case it means I can never, in Winter, take photos after 3pm in the afternoon - as by that time we always have to have the lights on (my house is an old cottage so not very bright and airy ). If i try with the light on it just shines on my glass and reflecs off it so it probably does that on your glass frames too.
Thank you everyone for your Bridge Camera suggestions. At least now i know I still have my, repaired, Minolta, i can take my time and enjoy checking them all out - before telling Bob which one I want for Christmas 
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Heidi,
You have raised a common problem where glass is in front of items, also relevant to taking pictures of items in cellophane packets, like cards.
The reflections can be avoided by using non-reflecting glass, (quite expensive), or you can use a polarizing filter on your camera lens.
The polarizing filter isn’t always perfect in my experience, but can make a difference, depending on the angle of the light and camera lens. You would need a circular polarizer for modern autofocus cameras to work properly.
You might pick up a cheap one on Ebay. Turn the ring on the filter to check the effect it has on the screen of the camera.
Smaller cameras have smaller lenses and that means the filter size is smaller and cheaper, say around £30. The filter screws in the lens or you may need an adaptor if no filter thread there. Larger SLR’s will have lenses that you could pay £50- £100 or more for a good polarizer.
By the way, with certain textiles, some modern digital cameras can give disturbing moire patterns. I have a full-frame digital SLR, and it gives fantastic results, but some fabrics and claddings on buildings give moire patterns. Probably won’t affect you, unless you go for a very modern camera without an anti-alias filter ! (Don’t ask !) .
Finally, if you erect a black velvet ‘tent’ around the glazed frame you are photographing, and keep the camera back and use a long focus lens, semi-telephoto or zoom in, so you still get some light, you will probably eliminate a lot of the reflections, even without filters.
The trick is to get a balance of light enough to photograph (without flash) and enough of the tent to eliminate the reflections. Hope this helps.
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