Folksy Ltd

Good glue I need help

(Oh Button Me) #1


So I need help I wanted to make some hairslides and rings. Just adding a acrylic flat backed beads to metal.
I have purchases E6000 some epoxy glue and various others. My problem is none stay without snapping off. It is really annoying me now as I keep buying glues that people recommend and nothing’s working.
There is so many people who sell items like this I can’t be the only one is doesn’t work for can anyone help me?

(Rachel) #2

I like G S HYPO Cement, I only seem to be able to buy it from the internet and not locally. Rachel

(Donna) #3

Have you tried a hot glue gun? You can get them anywhere and they’re not too expensive.

(Plumporridge) #4

I have been using G S Hypo Cement too. I bought it on e-bay and have found it quite good and it is lasting me ages. I don’t really do a lot of jewellery making though, just a few button rings and fun things like that when I have a stall.

(Sally Lucas) #5

@OhButtonMe I use Elmer’s Glue-All Max (imported from the US) and use it to stick fabric into my metal framed purses. It’s amazing! Purchased via Amazon.

(Diane Burton) #6

I’ve not used it on metal but Pinflair glue gel is good at sticking plastic embellishments onto cards and they claim it will stick most things including metal.

(Oh Button Me) #7

Thank you all for your replys I am going to have a look into them all.
I thought it would be easy but many pots of glue later I’m sad to say im stuck.

(Beadypool) #8

I use E6000 for making hair clips. I have found though that once the tube is open you have to use it straight away. Once the air gets in it, it doesn’t work as well.

(Rachel) #9

ha ha @OhButtonMe “sad to say your stuck” isnt that the issue lol :stuck_out_tongue:

(Oh Button Me) #10

Indeed it is shame it’s not the work that is lol

(Leanne Woods) #11

Have you keyed all your surfaces before gluing? It’s very strange for even an epoxy to come apart unless the surfaces weren’t prepared by sanding and cleaning well with something like methylated spirits to make absolutely sure there’s no oils from fingers etc on there. If they’re properly prepared first most glues suitable for non porous surfaces should do the job.

(Plumporridge) #12

Should you sand and clean buttons then before glueing to rings or clips?

(Leanne Woods) #13

Yes definitely if they’re non porous they need chuffed up a bit on the reverse to give the glue something to bite onto and they’ll need a clean to remove the dust from sanding and any oils. Ring blanks and clips will always have a film of some sort on them from the manufacturing process so they’ll need a good clean more than anything, if the blanks have a nobbly pad to glue into you’re good to go once it’s cleaned but I’d sand smooth pads to texture them too before gluing anything to them.

(Oh Button Me) #14

Sorry Leanne I did not see your first reply for some reason. I don’t usually do anything just glue them and some times they glue many times they dont. This could be a good thing to try as I am fed up of buying glues.

(Debi Cummins) #15

The problem with Superglue type products including E6000 is that they bond instantly but over time become brittle. I’d recommend GS hypp Cement as it was designed for watch makers and works well on all materials.

(Stephanie Guy) #16

I’m so glad this questions has been asked as I want to buy some stud blanks and acrylic type things to stick onto them for Xmas pressies. Now I know what to buy! Thanks :slight_smile:

(Oh Button Me) #17

I have just purchased some GS hypo cement let’s hope this helps. Also going to pick up some methylated spirits aswell fi gets crossed it works. A quick craft idea has turned quite expensive (if I break anything at home I’m sure to be able to have some glue to hand)

Thanks again all

(Wanderings) #18

Hi! Wondering how you found the GS hypo cement? I used to use E6000 but have decided to bin it- the fumes were so bad I started worrying for my health!!!

(Grimm Exhibition) #19

I use araldite a 2 part epoxy(the blue version). I used it to stick these rhinestones on years ago, and they are still stuck fast.

(Leslie Morton) #20

@OhButtonMe I use Collall glue for my mosaics, I often use metal or glass on glass and it sticks very well. I like it better than silicone which I think would be another good suggestion as it will bend and not snap, It works equally well indoors and out. I have some samples of an excellent silicone that I can gift you if you pay the postage. I also sell small bottles of 2 types of Collall, one is a PVA (the one I always use) - it says Wood glue on the label and one they call Universal which is also excellent. Neither have toxic fumes like E6000 and Hypo so its safe to use without ventilation. Be really careful with glues and your lungs. A close friend of mine, also a mosaic artist, has recently been diagnosed with a terminal llung disease that they attribute to the years of glue and cement use. Let me know if you want to try the silicone and I would be happy to send it to you for the postage.